Welcome Sacramento’s autumn with this Thai-spiced kabocha squash soup recipe

The Abridged version:

• Lisa Lin’s creamy kabocha squash soup recipe uses Thai ingredients such as lemongrass, coconut milk, makrut lime leaves and ginger.
• Kabocha, also known as Japanese pumpkins, are a sweeter squash variety available now at local farmers markets.
• Lin prefers this soup slightly cooled, but it can be enjoyed warm as well.

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This is Cooking in Season, a biweekly recipe series using seasonal produce available at Sacramento-area farmers markets. 

Although the Sacramento area’s recent warm weather will have us believe otherwise, soup season has begun. What better way to celebrate the shifting of seasons than with a hearty kabocha squash soup that evokes autumnal colors?

Kabocha (also known as Japanese pumpkin) has a rough and speckled dark green skin with vibrant yellow-orange flesh. It is one of the sweeter varieties of winter squash and has a dense texture, making it great for blending into a thick and creamy soup. 

The aromatics I used for this kabocha soup are common ingredients in Southeast Asian cuisine. I wanted the soup to have a bright citrus flavor, so I used lemongrass and makrut lime leaves. Both of these ingredients have their own unique citrus aroma that complements each other very well. 

Lemongrass is a fibrous green stalk with subtle citrus notes. You can find fresh lemongrass sold in bunches at the Sunday Asian farmers market (on 5th Street and Broadway) or at the Central Sacramento Sunday Certified Farmers Market. I generally prefer buying lemongrass from the farmers market because it’s much fresher there. If you can’t make it to the Sunday markets, I’ve also seen fresh lemongrass stalks sold individually at Nugget Markets and the Sacramento Natural Foods Co-op, or in bunches at Asian grocers. 

Makrut lime leaves have layers of aromas, including lime, lemon verbena and floral notes. Fresh leaves have a shiny forest green side and a lighter lime green underside. Occasionally, I can find fresh leaves at the Asian farmers market. More often, I can find them in the herbs section of Asian grocers, such as 99 Ranch Market or SF Supermarket. Look for leaves that are vibrant green and free from brown spots. Dried makrut lime leaves are also available on some online spice shops, such as Oaktown Spice Shop. 

Alternatively, you can buy fresh makrut limes from Lindcove Ranch at the central Sunday farmers market during the fall and winter months. Use the zest from one of these limes (that’s where most of the aroma is). If the leaves or makrut limes are too difficult to find, feel free to leave them out. 

Thai-spiced kabocha squash soup

Total Time: 1 hour 15 minutes (including cooling time)

Yield: 4 to 6 servings (about 8 to 9 cups of soup)

When picking lemongrass, look for stalks that have a light green exterior and flat green tips. Avoid stalks with lots of yellowing layers and dried-out, wiry tips. If you don’t want to buy fresh lemongrass, you can use 1 1/2 tablespoons of Gourmet Garden lemongrass paste, which comes in a convenient tube.

To give this soup extra body, I added red lentils, which break down pretty quickly during the cooking process and take on a powdery texture once cooked. When you blend the cooked red lentils with the other ingredients, it’ll add more heft and creamy texture to the soup. 

I like serving the soup lightly cooled, so I do not reheat the soup after I blend all the ingredients together. If you want something hotter, feel free to reheat the soup in the pot for a few minutes over medium heat.

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Ingredients

• 2 1/2 lbs whole kabocha squash
• 3 stalks of lemongrass
• 2 tablespoons neutral oil, such as sunflower, canola or avocado oil
• 5 ounces shallots, peeled and diced
• 1 1/2-inch piece of ginger, peeled and sliced
• 5 cloves of garlic
• 2/3 cups red lentils
• 4 cups vegetable broth (or broth of choice)
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
• 4 makrut lime leaves (fresh or dried, optional)
• 1/2 cup coconut milk, plus more for garnish
• Thinly sliced scallions for garnish (optional)

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Instructions

Step 1

Using a sharp knife, slice the kabocha in half. Use a spoon to scoop out the seeds and strings. Then peel the outer skin with a vegetable peeler. Finally, cut the kabocha into 1-inch cubes.

Step 2

Peel off any dry outer layers of the lemongrass stalks. Slice off the bottom ends (by about 1/4 inch), then slice the stalks into 3-inch sections. If the thin leafy tips of the stalks are still green, you can use them for the soup, too. Tie any loose tips together into a bundle with kitchen twine. Using a kitchen mallet or the flat side of your knife, smash the lemongrass sections gently to release the aroma. Count how many lemongrass sections you have and remember that number, as you will need to fish out these sections from the soup later on.

Step 3

In a large pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the lemongrass stalks, shallots, ginger and garlic. Sauté the aromatics for about 5 to 6 minutes, until the shallots soften.

Step 4

Add the kabocha cubes, red lentils, vegetable broth, salt and makrut lime leaves. Cover the pot with the lid and bring the broth to boil.

Step 5

Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for another 15 to 18 minutes, covered. The red lentils should have broken down and turned yellow, and the kabocha should be fork-tender.

Step 6

Turn off the heat and pour in the coconut milk. Let the soup cool, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Fish out the lemongrass sections and makrut lime leaves with tongs. 

Step 7

Use a high-speed blender or immersion blender to blend all the ingredients until you get a creamy soup. Taste the soup and adjust the seasonings, adding more salt if needed. 

Step 8

Ladle the soup into bowls and garnish with additional coconut milk and sliced scallions, if desired. Serve the soup on its own or with some crusty bread.