The Abridged version:
- Zoe B. Soderstrom’s latest “Cooking in Season” recipe is inspired by a Lake Tahoe restaurant meal.
- Soderstrom used delicata squash from Pilz Produce’s stand at the Old Town Auburn Farmers Market.
- Smoky ground chipotle, aromatic garlic and sharp grated Parmesan cheese tie the dish together.
This is Cooking In Season, a biweekly series from local recipe developer Zoe B. Soderstrom using seasonal produce available at Sacramento-area farmers markets.
It wasn’t until recently that I realized delicata is the true hero of winter squash — creamy, sweet and soft, requiring minimal prep and far less muscle than its tougher counterparts.
The recent moment, to be exact, was when my husband Tate and I ordered the chipotle bourbon delicata squash at Shadyside Lounge, located just south of Tahoe City. Upon ordering it, the waitress smirked, looked at us and said, “I’m so happy you’re ordering this one — it’s my personal favorite and not enough people order it.” One bite in, I understood exactly what she meant. It’s simple yet flavorful, filling, and a perfect showcase of delicata’s quiet brilliance.
So, when I saw piles of delicata squash from Pilz Produce at Hillcrest (found at Old Town Auburn Farmers Market on Saturdays from 8 a.m. to noon), I knew I had to recreate this very dish while making it my own. It’s great as a light dinner or Thanksgiving side; to transform it into a fuller meal, add your choice of legume, like garbanzo or cannellini beans.
GARLIC CHIPOTLE DELICATA SQUASH SKILLET
Serves 4
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Cook Time: 10 minutes
Total Time: 15 minutes
Delicata squash — known for its delicate, edible skin and naturally sweet flesh — is unique among winter squashes in that it requires very little prep or cooking time. Unlike its tougher squash counterparts, it can be cooked entirely on the stovetop in just about 10 minutes, yielding a tender, creamy texture.
In this quick, one-skillet version, we pair its sweetness with smoky ground chipotle, aromatic garlic and sharp grated Parmesan. The result is layered yet straightforward, making for a perfect autumnal side dish. If you can’t find ground chipotle, feel free to swap for a ½ teaspoon of smoked paprika.
Ingredients
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 medium (about 1 ½ to 2 pounds total) delicata squashes, halved lengthwise, seeded and sliced crosswise ½-inch thick
½ teaspoon kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal, which is flakier and less dense than Morton’s), plus more to taste
4 tablespoons salted butter
3 garlic cloves, finely minced
1 tablespoon brown sugar
¾ teaspoon ground chipotle
½ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Instructions
Step 1
Heat olive oil in a 10- to 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Once the oil is hot and shimmering, add delicata squash and season with salt. Sauté until the squash is lightly seared on both sides, about 6 to 7 minutes (about 3 minutes per side). Stir occasionally.
Step 2
Reduce the heat to medium-low and add butter. Once the butter has completely melted, stir in garlic, brown sugar and ground chipotle. Cook, stirring frequently, until the garlic is lightly toasted, the sugar has dissolved and the chipotle is fragrant, about 3 minutes.
Step 3
Turn the heat off completely and evenly sprinkle Parmesan over the squash, allowing the residual heat to melt the cheese. Before serving, garnish with freshly ground black pepper and salt as needed.
Zoe B. Soderstrom is the writer and recipe developer behind Cooking In Season, a biweekly column featuring recipes made from the Sacramento region’s seasonal produce. She runs the popular Substack page Restaurant Dropout and previously worked in Bay Area restaurants after graduating from culinary school.